For the first part of our trip to Portugal, my husband and I stayed in Cascais. Truth be told, when we first booked the hotel, we thought it was closer to Lisbon and that we could just Uber wherever we needed to go in the city. When we learned our mistake, we decided to stay there anyway and rent a car. I’m glad we did.
We flew into Lisbon separately, met at the rental car desk, and made our way to Cascais.
Quick Tip Time: If you are doing the same (separate flights), be aware that there are two rental car areas at Lisbon airport, on different floors. My phone’s SIM was not behaving, and we both spent a good 45 minutes roaming around looking for the other person, wondering how we could ever find them.
Quick Tip Time: I know. Another tip already. Ask yourself if you need a rental car in Portugal. We did for the few days we were staying outside of Lisbon, but if you are just staying in the city, don’t. We have driven in Tokyo, New York, LA. And none of them compared to driving in Portugal, which was quite frankly terrifying at times. Yes, that car towing a giant RV did just cut across three lanes of traffic with no warning in a roundabout! We were happy to return it and enjoy Lisbon by foot and taxi.
The Portuguese Riviera
The coastal region to the west of Lisbon is known as the Portuguese Riviera or the Estoril Coast. Cascais is one of the main towns in the area. Once a small fishing village, it has since developed into a popular destination with museums, luxury hotels, shopping, and plenty of dining options (see below). We rented a car to drive between there and Lisbon, but you can also reach it by train, about 40 minutes from the capital.
Cascais is home to quite a few museums and points of interest, but the draw for us was the coastline. For much of our stay there, it served as a base for trips elsewhere: Lisbon, Sintra, etc. On our last day, however, we decided to take in the Atlantic air and walked from our hotel down to the coast. We browsed the little markets and boutiques, enjoyed ice cream (chestnut and port, anyone?), admired the architecture, and people-watched. A few highlights are pictured below:
Where We Stayed
We stayed at the Sheraton Cascais Resort and Hotel which is now a Marriott property. Usually, our hotel is little more than a base for us to return to at night and sleep. However, the Sheraton Cascais Resort is an absolutely beautiful property. Check in was a breeze (and accompanied by a glass of champagne – very welcome after the flight and drive from Lisbon airport). Our suite was comfortable and spacious with a balcony, offering wonderful views of the full moon.
The hotel offers several on-site dining options. While we didn’t try the Yakuza, we did eat at the Glass Terrace on our first night (very good). The Living Room offers more casual options for when you want a toastie or something quick. Other amenities include a spa, gym, pool, kids club, golf, and movie nights under the stars. All in all, an excellent choice whether you’re traveling for business or pleasure.
Where We Ate
Even though we travelled into Lisbon or elsewhere most days we were in Cascais, we often came back to eat there in the evenings. We did not have a bad meal our entire time in Portugal but the following are places we would suggest trying if you find yourself in the area.
Onofre
We are here after a busy day dealing with Lisbon traffic. The thought of getting back in the car to find a restaurant was not appealing, but this was within a short walking distance of where we were staying. When we arrived, it had only just opened so it was still pretty quiet and we enjoyed a relaxing dinner while the owner’s kid did their homework at the next table. We started with a couple of appetizers: chicken meatballs, and a warmed goat cheese topped with nuts and dried fruit. (I’ve been meaning to recreate this at home.) I then had a duck confit on a bed of chorizo and rice, while my husband ordered steak and some of the best potatoes we’ve ever tasted. Cut into cubes and deep-fried, they were crispy on the outside and like soft little pillows when you bit into them. I was tempted to go back the next night but we wanted to try some other spots. Vila Bicuda Aldeamento Turístico, 2750-689 Cascais.
Pateo do Petisco Torre
When we arrived here on a Thursday evening, the place was packed to the gills with crowds of locals. We weren’t sure if we would be able to find a table, and one review had claimed that they were unfriendly to tourists. This was not the case at all. Despite our lack of a reservation or Portuguese language skills, a server quickly showed us to a table. For the next hour or so, we enjoyed a lively atmosphere, local beer, and small plates that included roasted chilis, steak in pepper sauce, fried shrimp, and more. Then, much to our delight, the owner insisted that we try a traditional dessert on the house. It was a version of serradura (aka sawdust pudding). How can something as simple as whipped condensed milk and crushed biscuits taste so amazing? Sadly, we forgot to take pictures, but you can find out more at their website. Tv. Amoreiras 5, Tower 2750-739 Cascais.
Taba
We stopped at Taba on our way back to Cascais after a day exploring Sintra and the coast. The very friendly owner of Villa 6 in Sintra had provided us with a list of his recommended dining spots. Taba was one of them. That was the first of many things it had going for it. Second, it serves Brazilian food and that includes black beans. Honestly, any menu that lists black beans has my attention. We dined on more padron peppers, shrimp vatapa, and the aforementioned beans. It’s a beautiful little restaurant with friendly staff and a nice ambience. It’s also clearly very popular with the locals as there was a steady stream of customers coming to dine in or pick up orders. If only I’d had more time to try the entire menu! Estrada da Malveira da Serra 1680, 1750-837 Aldeia do Juzo.
Baía do Peixe
On our last night in Cascais before we moved to Lisbon and my husband had to deal with work, we decided to celebrate our vacation with a fishy feast. And what a feast! Baía do Peixe is a two-floor restaurant overlooking Cascais harbor. If you are lucky enough to get one of the patio tables, you can enjoy the stunning view. But even if you are seated inside, this is still a fabulous spot for locally-caught fish. We didn’t have a reservation (in hindsight, I would recommend one) but were lucky enough to get a table since we arrived just at the start of the main dinner rush. There are meat and vegetarian options available but the seafood is the main draw. Spoiled for choice, we asked our server what he would suggest. A platter for two it was. Luckily we had built up an appetite walking all day. An enormous platter of potatoes, shrimp, turbot, and more fish arrived. But that wasn’t all! More plates arrived piled high with clams, squid, and garlic prawns. Every bite was incredible. We eventually had to admit defeat and wandered around the harbor to work off some of the calories. If you love seafood, this is THE place to go. Av. Dom Carlos I 6, 2750-310 Cascais.
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